Set sail along the Douro River

Anyone who drank wine in the 1960s, ’70s or ‘80s probably enjoyed at least a glass or two of one of Portugal’s easy-drinking exports, Mateus Rosé. Created in 1942 during the height of World War II, Mateus founder Fernanco van Zeller Guedes combined Portuguese vinho verde grapes with French wine-making techniques to produce a rosé that was slightly bubbly, delicately sweet and pinkish in hue.

This popular wine was originally crafted to suit Brazilian tastes, as exports to Europe were disrupted by German U-boats in the Atlantic. The sparkling nature provided crossover appeal that captured beer and soda drinkers as well as wine enthusiasts. By the late 1980s, bolstered by the introduction of a white wine version, Mateus accounted for over 40 percent of Portugal’s table wine exports and achieved global sales of more than three million cases per year.

One of the hallmarks of Mateus, and undoubtedly a major contributor to its worldwide success, is its depiction of an opulent estate entitled “Palacio de Mateus” on its label. In truth, the building in question, which is located in Vila Real, has never played a material role in the wine’s production and is not technically a palace. According to Portuguese law, a building may be deemed a “palace” only if a member of the sovereignty has spent at least one night on its premises. The house was built during the first half of the 18th century by António José Botelho Mourão, and his descendants still live there today.

To legally use the estate’s likeness on Mateus labels, Guedes offered the owners a choice: they could receive either a small royalty on every bottle sold or a lump sum paid up front. Their decision to accept the latter option is widely considered one of the greatest mistakes in the history of both business and wine. According to Oz Clarke’s The History of Wine in 100 Bottles, it is “still not a subject to be brought up in conversation.”

The Mateus brand may not be as famous now as it was in its heyday, but it has enjoyed a revival since the turn of the millennium thanks to a relaunch and a subtle adjustment to the original recipe that made it slightly drier and therefore more appealing to modern palates. Despite the flavor changes, the wine is still sold in its distinctive narrow-necked, flask-shaped bottle—inspired by the water flasks traditionally worn on the hip by Portuguese soldiers during World War I—complete with the iconic Palacio de Mateus label and a real cork stopper.

The Museu do Douro (Douro Museum), located in the peaceful town of Régua, provides an insightful look into Portugal’s Douro wine region. Since its founding, the museum has earned praise for its commitment to preserving the Douro’s distinctive culture and heritage. Fittingly, it occupies the former headquarters of the General Company of Agriculture and Alto Douro Vines (1756–1863), the organization that established the Douro as the world’s first demarcated wine region.

The three-story building, reminiscent of a farmhouse and designed in the Pombaline architectural style, originally served many purposes. These included administrative and judicial functions, including developing and regulating the production and marketing of the region’s wine. Here, the company’s employees and winemakers who made the trek to Régua for its annual wine fair could also find lodging. Wine was even made and stored on-site.

Today, the first floor that was used for wine storage holds the museum’s permanent collection showcasing various artifacts, wine labels and artwork. Once reserved for meetings, wine exhibitions and court proceedings, the second floor contains a wine bar and restaurant in what was formerly a wine-tasting room and kitchen, respectively.

The next time you hear the satisfying pop of a cork leaving a bottle, remember that it was probably made in Portugal. Nearly half of the world’s cork production hails from this bountiful country, and cork alone accounts for a substantial share of Portugal’s total foreign income derived from trade. Its three primary consumer markets are the US, the UK and Germany, which together absorb about 70 percent of the total.

This remarkable material originates from the cork oak tree, which has developed its signature thick layer of bark over time as an adaptation to southwestern Europe’s long history of drought, bush fires and temperature fluctuations. This tree covers a significant portion of Portugal’s landscape and makes up more than a quarter of its forests. Cork is astonishingly lightweight, with 50 percent of its volume consisting of pure air. It is the only readily available solid on Earth that, when compressed on one side, does not increase in volume on the other. It is also elastic, waterproof, fire-retardant and abrasion resistant. However, its most noteworthy property is its renewability.

It takes about 25 years for a cork oak tree to be ready for harvesting. After that, the bark can be collected again every nine years. This is due to the fact that cork naturally regenerates, so one tree can produce a lifetime of harvests. Since some trees live up to 150 years, it is little wonder that cork plays such a vital role in Portugal’s economy.

Cork harvesting is a highly specialized craft. Two cork strippers work in tandem, carefully chopping and peeling the bark from the tree’s trunk. The process remains entirely manual, relying on a steel axe that harvesters use to measure the bark’s thickness, listening for the sound it produces. Due to the skill and precision involved, cork harvesting is the highest-earning sector of Portugal’s agricultural industry.

From fishing boats to floor tiles, durable cork has served many purposes over the centuries, even providing ship-building materials for the vessels used by Portuguese explorers during the Age of Discovery. Nevertheless, it was an Englishman, Robert Hooke, who discovered that cork provides the perfect seal for wine bottles—surely an idea worthy of a toast.