Embark on a journey through Budapest

From Gothic and baroque to neoclassical and modern, old and new architecture come together to form Budapest’s striking skyline. Yet, notably, none of these buildings exceeded 315 ft. (96 m, approx. 30 stories) in height prior to 2021. Indeed, for more than a century, only two structures reached that altitude—the Parliament building and St. Stephen’s Basilica, whose identical heights represented the country’s equal respect for state and religion.

In an era where vertical expansion is used to symbolize a city’s economic growth and power, it may be difficult to understand why a major city such as Budapest would not have any skyscrapers. This was not simply a design fluke or the result of limited resources. It was an intentional decision, made to help retain Budapest’s historic urban landscape. To further ensure this goal, new high-rise restrictions were announced in 2018.

Now, all future proposals surpassing 213 ft. (65 m) must gain special approval, and nothing above 295 ft. (90 m) will be accepted. The only exception is the office building in District 11, given that it received planning permission a year before the legislation was enacted. And, at 394 ft. (120 m), the tower became the tallest structure in both Budapest and Hungary upon its completion.

Despite this new structure’s height, the Hungarian Parliament Building is arguably still Budapest’s most impressive symbol. Dominating the Danube River’s left bank, this neo-Gothic masterpiece was designed by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl. Built by a thousand workers between 1885 and 1902, the building’s exterior is lined with 90 statues of Hungarian heroes. Inside, there are 691 rooms, 10 courtyards and 29 staircases.

Born in Hungary in 1811, Franz Liszt is regarded by some as the greatest piano virtuoso of all time. His father taught him to play the instrument when he was only six. By age seven, he was writing music; by nine, he was performing in concert halls before Austrian society. This earned Liszt a stipend that enabled his father to hire a pupil of Ludwig van Beethoven’s to mentor the young prodigy. Later, Beethoven attended one of Liszt’s concerts and bestowed his blessings on the young man. By age 10, Liszt’s reputation had spread, so his father moved the entire family to Paris to further his son’s career.

By age 16, Liszt was exhausted and ill from the constant travel and demands of the concert circuit. He began teaching piano to the children of the rich and influential, falling deeply in love with the 16-year-old daughter of a cabinet minister. Though his feelings were reciprocated, the girl’s father objected and married her to someone more socially acceptable. Liszt never recovered and, as an elderly man, made provisions for her in his will. Later, at 22, Liszt was romantically involved and had children with Countess Marie d’Agoult, a married woman of 28. In his thirties, he lived with Princess Carolyne zu Sayn-Wittgenstein, an immensely wealthy and married Polish aristocrat.

While Liszt was never lucky in love, his career was spectacular. He was a prolific composer, and many of his works presaged the innovations of the 20th century. He invented the symphonic poem form and developed the concept of thematic transformation. Liszt was not only a virtuoso performer and brilliant composer, but also a shrewd music promoter and benefactor to artists like Frédéric Chopin, Hector Berlioz, Edvard Grieg, Ole Bull and others. By his death in 1886, at age 75, he had written more than 700 compositions.

In 1867, Liszt was commissioned to write a piece for the coronation ceremony of Franz Joseph and Elisabeth of Bavaria. The Hungarian Coronation Mass was performed on June 8 of that year at the Matthias Church. This piece renewed his links with his native land, and for the remainder of his life, Liszt regularly traveled between Rome, Weimar and Budapest, living what he called a “tripartite life.”

In 1875, he founded the Franz Liszt Academy of Music, often called the “Music Academy,” in Budapest. It moved to Andrássy Avenue around 1878, where it now houses his original musical instruments, furniture, several valuable books and manuscripts. The interior of the historic, neo-Renaissance building is decorated with frescoes and several statues, including one of another great Hungarian composer, Béla Bartók, who was an alumnus of the academy. You can also see three restored rooms where Liszt lived at the end of his life, between 1881 and 1886.

Today, Hungary’s favorite spice, paprika, is considered a national treasure. It features prominently in some of the country’s most well-known dishes, such as gulyás (goulash) and paprikás csirke (chicken paprikash).

Paprika is a ground spice made from the dried and crushed red fruits of the Capsicum annuum plant, better known as the bell or red pepper. Its flavor ranges from mild to hot, and its reddish-orange color comes from carotenoids. In addition to its flavor, paprika is known for its health benefits. Hungarian scientist Dr. Albert Szent-Györgi discovered that paprika contains seven times as much vitamin C as oranges—research that led him to win the Nobel Prize in 1937.

Despite its strong association to Hungary, this “red gold” is not a native plant. It was likely exported from central Mexico to Spain during the 16th century. There, it was called pimentón and was frequently used to season the cuisine of Extremadura. It made its way to the Ottoman Empire via North Africa, then to the fields of the Hungarian Puszta. It grew there for a few centuries before becoming popular in the 19th century. The legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier supposedly purchased some paprika from Szeged in 1879, introduced it to the rest of Europe, and demand for the spice soared.

The word paprika simply means “pepper” in Hungarian, but the simplicity ends there. There are eight basic grades of Hungarian paprika, arranged below in order from hottest to mildest:

• Erős, or strong, is the hottest paprika. It tends to have a light brown color and is used sparingly in dishes like spicy halászlé (fisherman’s soup) or fiery sausages.
• Félédes is semi-sweet with medium heat and a balanced flavor. It is ideal for dishes that need a gentle kick, such as töltött paprika (stuffed peppers).
• Édesnemes, or noble sweet, is the most commonly exported Hungarian paprika. It has a bright red color, rich aroma and peppery warmth. It is frequently used in iconic dishes like gulyás (goulash).
• Csípős csemege, or pungent delicate, is one of the most popular varieties in Hungary. It brings noticeable heat to pörkölt (Hungarian stew) or spiced meat rubs, without overpowering the dishes.
• Csemegepaprika is delicate, with a light aroma and a generally mild and refined flavor. It is used in classic paprikás csirke (chicken paprikash).
• Csípősmentes csemege, or mild delicate, is extremely mild in heat but rich in flavor, making it versatile for everyday cooking, including soups, sauces and vegetable dishes.
• Rózsa, or rose, has a fragrant aroma and only a gentle hint of heat. It is pinkish in color and is suitable for lighter dishes, including egg recipes or creamy sauces.
• Különleges, or special quality, is the mildest paprika. It is very sweet and has a deep, bright red color. It is perfect as a garnish or for adding color and subtle flavor to dishes like potato salads or deviled eggs.

Paprika is delicious as a garnish but its full flavor truly emerges only when it is heated. You may sample different types of paprika, various paprika-flavored dishes or paprika-spiced sausages during a visit to Budapest’s Grand Market Hall.